William E. Unger, Jr. I said sure and waited and waited. Finally I received the book right before the Chicagoland show. I spent a day or so reading and realized that no way I could finish. So on I went and after many days I have "finished.
Then there is nothing to connect them. Each fellow murders a total stranger. Like you do my murder and I do yoursFor example, your wife, my father. How could it not be, with the legendary detective novelist Raymond Chandler as the top word-man? But this is not a blog about swapping murders. Wellington System Billiard. No doubt you have spotted it without trouble, or will soon deduce the answer from following photos.
And then, in photo three - the miraculous transplant to the WDC after the donated organ has embraced its new host body, at least tentatively. A few words concerning the William Demuth Co. Demuth entered the U. His break came when he attained the position of clerk for a tobacco products trade company. Demuth founded his own company in Brooklyn, New York intwo years into the Civil War, when he was only Success was rapid, leading to friendships with such prominent figures as James A. He served only four months before he was gunned down by a single shot aimed by Charles Julius Guiteau, an American lawyer denied an ambassadorship to France evidently for good cause, as shooting the president on July 2, four months into his term, was not very diplomatic.
Guiteau was hanged several days short of a year after the ultimate assassination.
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Having become a subsidiary of S. In a sentence, this restoration was more about the stem than anything else. Then, when I donned my Dollar Store 3. Note the correct shape of this bit from lip to tenon.
My next brainstorm was to sand off the P, and in fact set out to do so when I came to my senses. What can I say? Sometimes I have the stupidest ideas. That System Standard needs serious work, also; not only a new, genuine bit but a replacement matching band.
I will tackle that one when I have the new bit and band and am up to speed on the process of banding. With a happy glow of contentment in the pit of my belly, I replaced the above bit, with the P filled in at last, on its rightful pipe in the stand-up, two sided bookshelf with doors where I store most of my collection, and opted to proceed with this restoration by doing the long, tedious work of applying layers of black Super Glue to build up the thinner, bottom section of the bit that lacks a tenon.
As a result, while the rest of the Wellington has been finished for about ten days, the old bit, mangled by some wannabe pipe fixer, took days of patient layering, sanding and micro-meshing each phase, then polishing on the buffers, and was only completed moments ago.
I started the bit on its way, which I knew would take some days, by filing it to a uniform tapering roundness and sanding with and grit paper before micro-meshing from After that I gave the entire surface of the bit below the bulge the first of four thick coats of black Super Glue.
Aware of the risk, I then stripped the old finish with as short as possible of an Everclear soak. Starting with super fine steel wool, then micromesh every step fromthe wood and steel band had a nice natural sheen.
Without stain, using the natural rich color of the briar, I prepared the bowl and shank for the coming test to see if the bit worked out, the likelihood of which I had doubts, by buffing it with white Tripoli, White Diamond and two coats of carnauba, using the plain cloth buffer between each, of course.
The following days seemed to drag with each successive layer of black Super Glue and the long drying time followed by sanding with grit paper and micro-meshing up the scale each time. But in the end, the result was worth the time and effort, considerable and somewhat unnerving as they were.
As the bit was when I received the Pete System Standard with which it came, well, the bit was the tip of the iceberg with that future project. Of course I would have preferred to place a perfect, like-new bit in this great WDC Wellington, but the personal reward came in finding out that I could take what I had and make it work.
The second bowl I decided to work on from the box of bowls I was gifted was an old Wellington bowl that was actually in decent shape. It is quite a large bowl. The nickel ferrule was in good shape but slightly oxidized with a few small nicks and dents.
There was an uneven cake in the bowl and the sump area was filled with tars and oils. The finish was varnished but peeling as can be seen in the photo below. The rim had a tar build up and the varnish was peeling under it. The inner edge and outer edge of the rim was in excellent shape. There was no other stamping on the bowl. The stem did not come with the bowl.
I had an old Yello Bole stem from the same era as the Wellington and with the same structure at the tenon and the P-lip. It was scratched and oxidized and had some tooth marks on the top and bottom sides just ahead of the button. The bend in the stem had straightened so it would need to be re-bent to work well with the bowl.
I have several WDC pipes and have done quite a bit of research on the brand that I have written about on the blog. This one appeared to be a great piece of briar so I wanted to repair it. The following is a brief excerpt from the pipedia. After a series of odd jobs he found work as a clerk in the import business of a tobacco tradesman in New York City. In William established his own company. The Demuth Company is probably well known for the famous trademark, WDC in an inverted equilateral triangle.
Garfield, a connoisseur of meerschaum pipes. Later, Demuth arranged for another figurative matching the others to be added to the collection as each new president acceded to the White House, terminating with President Hoover.
In Ferdinand Feuerbach joined the Demuth Company and by had become the production manager. He left inwhen Sam Frank Sr. Feuerbach and Frank had been close friends since Frank started his own business in and was closely associated with the sales staff of WDC, selling their line of pipes.
In earlythe City of New York notified S. This was being done to widen two of the adjacent streets. As a result of this, Frank entered into negotiations to purchase the Wm. Demuth Co. It was agreed upon that Demuth would become a subsidiary of S. Frank and all pipe production of the two companies would be moved to DeMuth factory. Demuth pipes continued to be made at the Richmond Hill plant till December 31, Then the Wm. Demuth Company met its official end as a subsidiary company by liquidation.
Frank catalog until The two leaflets below give some of the details on the Wellington pipe. The first one is a sales leaflet that speaks of the assets of the pipe and what it has to offer the pipe smoker. The second one is a cutaway picture of the Wellington pipe that clearly shows the details of the drilling both of the airway and the sump or well in the heel and shank of the pipe. With the above diagram and information I was better equipped to work on the internals of the pipe and give it a thorough cleaning.
I really like digging out the information and some of the diagrams of the pipes that I work on so that I can get a feel for the design and an appreciation for the work. I fit the stem on the bowl and the overall look and feel was the same as the Wellington. The shoulder or ridge that formed the saddle was not as sharply defined as in the original stem but the look was close. The P-lip was the same and the tenon insert end was a match to the diagram above.
Once the stem was re-bent the look would be even closer to the original. I cleaned the top of the rim with a cotton pad and alcohol to remove the tars and oils. The interchangeable heads allow me to use various heads to careful trim back the cake. In this case I took it back to bare wood to clean it up and remove the uneven buildup.
I scrubbed down the finish with acetone on cotton pads. The varnish came off with scrubbing. Underneath the peeling varnish the stain was in good shape. The briar was very clean with no fills. The grain was quite nice with a mix of cross grain and birdseye. I scrubbed out the sump and the internals of the pipe with cotton swabs, pipe cleaners and isopropyl alcohol. I put the bowl upright in an ice cube tray that I use for a stand when sweetening the pipes I clean. It works very well in wicking out tars and oils.
I let it sit overnight. The first photo below shows the bowl after filling. The second photo below shows the bowl after 12 hours of soaking. Once I remove the cotton and re-clean the bowl and shank the smell of the pipe is fresh and clean.
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Over the weekend I picked up a few new tools to make the clean up simpler. One set of tools was the sanding sticks shown in the photo below. The various grits are clearly on the sticks. These work exceptionally well in the crease next to the button and on the shelf on the underside of the P-lip stem.
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I sanded the stem with grit sandpaper and with medium and fine grit sanding sponges. After the initial sanding was finished I used a heat gun to heat the stem and bent it over a rolling pin covered with a thick cardboard tube to give the stem a clean bend and avoid kinking the airway. I have been using this for quite a few years now and have not experienced trouble with damaging the airways in the bending process.
I sanded the stem once again with a fine grit sanding sponge. I generally do this before moving on to the micromesh sanding pads. I wiped down the bowl with a damp cloth to remove any dust and to get an idea of whether I would give it a coat of stain.
Once it was clean it looked good to me. No stain would be necessary on this old timer. The colouring once it was buffed would be perfect.
But the linchpin WDC pipe was the Wellington, which lasted beyond the company's own lifetime. Having become a subsidiary of S.M. Frank & Co. in , WDC continued until the final day of The Wellington, however, was still offered in Frank's catalog until and even had a brief reprise in the mids by way of consumer-direct Missing: dating. Dating Wdc Pipes, casual dating plattformen, rencontre du quatrieme type streaming, schweizer partnersuche kostenlos. annecoeurblanc Anne, 39 ans, Femme 66 ans. Date de naissance. Etait en ligne il y a 1 jour. 28 ans. 1 photo. Rencntre, 33 ans. 33 ans.
The rim needed a bit more sanding with the micromesh to clean up the top and then a folded piece of sandpaper on the inner edge to smooth things out. I worked on the stem with the micromesh sanding pads. I wet sanded with grit pads. Afterwards I noticed the oxidation that still remain at the saddle so I sanded it again with the medium and fine grit sanding sponges and repeated the micromesh wet sanding.
View all articles. I really love the history and evolution of these companies. The presentations are good and informative, and I wish there would be more of these videos to see on this website. It would be nice, though, if people would have the courtesy of turning off their cell phones during these presentations. These guys have done a lot of work in these presentations and they are much appreciated by new entusiasts like myself.
Anyone else remember this? General Dawes smoked the curious pipe incessantly and it became popularly known as the Dawes Underslung, because the shank joined the bowl near its rim. From the above information I learned some significant details about the Campaign pipe. That places this old pipe in the time period between the late s and early s. Reminded of the history of the brand and the provenance of this particular pipe it was time to begin working on the cleanup.
I removed bowl cup and cleaned out the shank with pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol. I cleaned out the inside of the outer cup with cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the buildup of tars and oils in the threads and sides and bottom of the bowl.
I scraped it back to bare briar. I scrubbed out the outside and the inside of the bowl with cotton swabs and alcohol to remove the remaining oil and tars. I used a folded piece of grit sandpaper to clean up the inner edge of the cup. I worked on the edge until it was clean. I polished the bowl and rim with micromesh sanding pads - wet sanding it with grit pads and dry sanding with grit pads.
I wiped the bowl down after each pad with a damp cotton pad to clean off the sanding dust.
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The photos show the progress of the polishing. I let it sit for a few minutes and then buffed it with a cotton cloth. The grain in the wood came alive and there was a rich shine to the briar. I sanded the band with grit micromesh sanding pads. I set the bowl aside in my rack and worked on the stem. I started by sanding it with grit sandpaper to remove the light oxidation, tooth chatter and nicks in the surface.
I cleaned the stem with alcohol and pipe cleaners to remove the debris and tars in the airway from the tenon to the slot in the button. I worked over the stem with micromesh sanding pads.
I polished out the sanding scratches and marks from the reshaping work. I wet sanded it with grit pads and dry sanded it with grit pads and wiped it down with Obsidian Oil after each one. When I finished with the last micromesh pad I gave it a final coat of oil and let it dry. I wiped it down with a final coat of Obsidian Oil and set it aside to dry.
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With the stem polished I put it back on the pipe and buffed the entire pipe with Blue Diamond polish on the buffing wheel. I buffed it with the polishing compound until it was shiny.
I gave the entire pipe several coats of carnauba wax and buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine. I hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth to deepen the shine.
Nov 01, PipesMagazine Approved Sponsor On Friday, May 1 at The Chicagoland Int'l Pipe & Tobacciana Show, Tom Clasen gave a 1-hour presentation entitled, "Collecting William Demuth & Co. (WDC) Pipes & related Tobacciana". The Program for Mr. Clasen's talk read as follows; "Tom will speak of the life and times of William Demuth including a Missing: dating. Posts about WDC pipes written by rebornpipes. Blog by Paresh Deshpande. There a quite a few WDCs that I have inherited from my old man and the one on my table now is a "Demuth, Gold Dot".I love the classic Bulldog and Rhodesian shape in pipes and am naturally attracted to pipes with this shape. Apr 16, 2. A case that fits the pipe. 3. A sterling silver or silver-plated original band on a bowl with no pits or fills. There is one peculiarity of older WDC's, before about (exception: the Wellingtons), and that is the small-diameter smoke path. You'll need a long drill bit on a handle to carefully ream out the smoke path in both shank and fatgirlnmotion.comg: dating.
The stem and the bowl polished up pretty nicely. Now that I have finished the last of the pipes it is time to pack them up and get them out to him. I am looking forward to hearing what he will think once he has them in hand.
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Thanks for walking through these restorations with me. Is there a psychology in the choosing one makes when befriending a pipe? After looking at scores of hopeful candidates, there was only one - only one - that she held in her hands, looking at it and smiling.
Is there a psychology unfolding in the process, the evaluation, and the weighing of one pipe against another?
The young wizard does not choose the wand - the wand chooses his wizard. Does the pipe do the choosing? And is there any credence to the oft unspoken observation - do pipe stewards resemble their pipes like canine lovers sometimes uncannily resemble their 4-legged friends? These observations come to my mind because intriguingly, the young lady who was claimed by the WDC Milano Swan Neck, shares, in some very remarkable ways, pleasing characteristics of this graceful pipe.
From my worktable on the 10 th floor of our flat here in Sofia, Bulgaria, I take these pictures to fill in the gaps. The chamber appears to have been cleaned to some degree and the carbon cake is very light. The rim is sad. It appears someone took a divot out of the internal lip trying to clean it or something. There is lava crusting as well on the rim surface and some hardened light stuff - the rim needs cleaning. The stummel has few if any fills that I see - the grain of the tall bowl is impressive.
The stem has the WDC inlaid white triangle on the top. Oxidation is present and the former steward was a clencher and chewer.
Both top and bottom of the bit shows deep bite dents. The top button lip is dented. The second thing I do is toss the tubing that was hanging in the tenon.
If it belonged to this pipe originally, something is missing as the airway diameter of the tenon is much larger than the tubing.
On an interesting note, there is a patent number stamped on the tubular stinger. I looked it up in Google patent search but found nothing that had bearing on pipes PAT.
Next, after spreading paper towel to catch the carbon dust, I use the Savinelli Pipe Knife to remove the little carbon left. I follow with sanding the chamber walls with a piece of sanding paper wrapped around a Sharpie Pen.
After some time, I decide to switch to a Kosher Salt and alcohol soak to finish off the internal cleaning and to freshen the stummel. I also use a brass bristled brush on the rim.
After the scrub, I rinse the stummel in cool tap water. The condition of the rim becomes more evident. I start with by topping the stummel using grit paper. I follow by creating an internal and external bevel around the rim. After a few rounds of working on the bevels, I realize that the internal rim divot is too much for the bevel to erase. I switch gears and mix some briar dust with thick CA glue and create a putty and fill the divot on the rim.
I spray it with an accelerator to shorten the curing time. I then use and grit sanding paper to blend the patch and finish the bevel on the internal and external edges of the rim. I then sand the stummel using a medium grade sanding sponge followed by a light grade sanding sponge. I remove the minor nicks and scratches on the bowl surface. I then proceed to sand the bowl using micromesh pads tothen tothen finally, to The process brings out the beautiful horizontal grain flows from the front of the bowl downward to encompass the heel.
With the day ending, I continue the cleaning and refreshing of the stummel internals using a Kosher Salt and alcohol soak. I take a straight stiff wire to help stuff it deeply into the mortise. With the stummel secured in the egg carton I fill the bowl with Kosher Salt which leaves no iodine after taste and give it a shank to displace the salt. I put it aside for the night. The next morning, the salt and alcohol soak did the job well. The salt had turned dark and pulling the wick out - the same was true of it.
I toss the expended salt and wick in the waste and wipe the bowl out removing leftover salt. Then returning to the use of cotton swabs and alcohol, in only a few plunges down the mortise, the internals are clean.
Pictures show the cleaning process. The stem was soaking in an OxiClean bath to raise the oxidation from the vulcanite.
I take stem out of the bath and the oxidation was raised showing the normal olive-green color. I then take grit sanding paper and wet sand the stem to remove the oxidation and to work on the serious teeth clenching damage. After the grit sanding, I give the stem a stiff buffing from grade steel wool. Interestingly, I noticed it earlier but thought that it would go away with the OxiClean and sanding. I see a small lighter reddish?
I take a little grit paper and go after it, but it remains for now. Pictures show oxidation and post-oxidation sanding. The button area is in bad shape. The former steward was a clencher par excellence. Neither upper nor lower bit areas were spared. I take pictures to mark the start. Focusing first on the topside, I use the heating method to see if I might hopefully tease out the concave dents. Then the bottom-side. Vulcanite, a form of rubber, amazingly will seek out its original disposition when heated as the rubber expands with the heat.
I light a candle and pass the bit-end of the stem over the flame in back and forth style. I try not to cook the vulcanite, but simply heat it strategically. After some time, using heat on upper and then lower, I take pictures to compare. You can see the closing of the dents in the picture comparisons below.
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I think there is a beneficial change, but there are still dents to repair. Pictures 1 and 2 are before heating and after for the upper side.
Pictures 3 and 4 of the lower side - before heating and after. I first use grit paper on the upper bit. I sand out as much as possible all the smaller dents. Through the years of clenching, the button lip has lost its distinction so using a flat needle file, I reintroduce the lip edge and then follow by sanding with to erase file tracks and shape more.
I gently sand the upper button lip as well. The tooth grip has turned into only a small dimple - good movement. The top looks great. The only patch needed is the remaining large dent. The topside filing, sanding and shaping progression is pictured below. Turning to the lower bit, again I use grit sanding paper to sand out what can be removed and blended by sanding. To prep the vulcanite for the patch work, I wipe down the upper and lower bit with a cotton pad wetted with alcohol.
I use a tooth pick as my trowel and tamper and I apply more putty than needed - the patch mound allows me to file down gently to the surface of the stem to achieve a better blended patch. I apply putty to the upper bit, and a dab on the small, remaining dimple on the button lip. I spray it with accelerator to cure the putty. I then do the same for the needed area on the lower bit. The pictures show the patch progress.
With the patch expanding closely to the button lip, I also utilize the flat needle file to separate and define the button lip. When close to the surface, I switch to grit paper to bring the patch flush with the vulcanite surface. I take pictures along the way to document progress. At this point, not surprised, I see very small air pockets exposed on the patch area see picture above.
With this wet glue, I paint the patch with a thin glaze of glue which fills the air pockets. I give the glaze of glue a quick spray of accelerator to cure it. I then take grit paper followed by steel wool to blend and complete the upper bit patch work.
The micromesh sanding later will further blend the patches. Now, to the lower bit patch. As before, I use the flat needle file initially, thenand then grade steel wool working toward the vulcanite surface then blending. Again, a few miniscule air pockets are revealed in the patch, and I repeat the same procedure as on the upper patch. Having been so focused on the button repairs, I almost forget again to clean the stem internal airway.
With pipe cleaners dipped in alcohol, I do that and it does not take long to clean. Putting the stem aside, I pick up the stummel.
I then warm the stummel with the heat gun after inserting a whittled cork into the shank to serve as a handle. After the bowl is warmed, helping the briar more effectively to absorb the dye, I apply the dye liberally using a folded over pipe cleaner.
After the stummel is covered, I fire the dye with a lit candle which ignites the alcohol in the dye and sets the pigment in the grain. After a few minutes, I repeat the procedure concluding with firing. I then put the stummel aside to rest. While the stummel rests, the stem is ready for the micromesh pad cycle.
I wet sand with pads tothen dry sand with pads to then to After each cycle, I apply Obsidian Oil to rejuvenate the vulcanite, and my how it likes it! The pop of a newly restored stem is wonderful to behold!
I mount the felt buffing wheel on the Dremel, which provides more abrasion to the surface, helping to remove the crust. I work the felt buffing wheel applying the abrasive Tripoli compound over the stummel. I am not able to reach the bend curve between the shank and the bowl with the felt wheel. I change to a cotton cloth buffing wheel again, only dedicated to Tripoli compound. Each compound has its own dedicated Dremel buffing wheels. I run the wheel over the entire surface.
One of the helpful cts of aniline, or alcohol-based dyes, is the ability to wipe it with alcohol to lighten the application as well as blend the dye. I take a picture before and after. Immediately after wiping down the surface, the surface clouds with the alcohol. I also reunite the stem with the stummel for the Blue Diamond buffing. The lightening and blending of the surface hue is showing off the grains quite nicely.
I give the pipe a hand buffing with a felt cloth, not so much to buff up the shine at this point but to remove the compound dust from the surface. The compounds are abrasives and the dust is the residue left over. I finish with a hefty hand buffing of the pipe with a microfiber cloth to raise the shine more. I hope she likes it. It is an elegant pipe and showcases beautiful flowing grain. The repaired rim also looks good - forming the beginning of the long elegant lines carried through to the swan neck stem.
Each pipe I restore benefits the work we do with the Daughters of Bulgaria - helping women and girls who have been sexually exploited and trafficked. For more information about this and pipes I have available, check out the store at The Pipe Steward. Thanks for joining me! It was in the same lot as the older C. I am guessing it is from the same era as the rest - late s through early s - but I am not positive. I can find nothing on the WDC Monitor in my pamphlets, books or online.
The pipe was in decent condition. The finish was worn and dirty. There was a cake in the bowl and the inner edge of the rim was damage slightly on the back edge. There was lava on the top of the rim but it looked like it was not too heavy and it did not appear that there was burn damage.
The stem was like the WDC Wellington faux P-lip with the airway coming out at the end rather than on top. It was oxidized and dirty.
There were some light scratches and chatter on the stem but it was in decent shape. The brass band was oxidized and dirty with some heavy buildup on the edges where it met the briar. It was also loose on the shank. My brother took quite a few photos to show the look of the pipe. It really is an interesting shape and one that I have not seen in this aged pipe before.
The stamping on the shank of the pipe had some faded gold leaf and read Monitor in script and underlined on the left side and WDC in a triangle on the right side. The stamping was very sharp with a little shallowness on the capital M of Monitor. The grain on the bowl was very nice and the carver had placed the shape on the grain to highlight the variety of grain - birdseye, cross grain and flame. It is a good looking piece of briar and I could only find the one fill.
The next two photos show the bowl. Notice not only the cake and the lava overflow on the rim but also the small nicks on the back, inner edge of the rim in both photos. The stem was oxidized as noted above and had scratching but did not have any tooth marks or chatter. The airway in the button was still round and did not show signs of damage.
The Solid Rubber stamping was fainter than the WDC logo on the top side of the stem with the word Rubber fading toward the end. Jeff thoroughly cleaned the pipe before he sent it to me. He reamed the bowl and scrubbed out the mortise and the airway in the shank and stem with alcohol, cotton swabs and pipe cleaners. The next photos show what it looked like when it arrived in Vancouver.
He did a great job cleaning up the rim and other than the small nicks on the back side of the inner edge it looked flawless. I wiped the bowl down with a soft cotton pad and a little alcohol to remove any dust or debris left behind by the packing material and dried it off.
I reglued the band with a white all purpose glue and polished it with micromesh sanding pads. I used a folded piece of grit sandpaper to work over the damage to the rim edge and it did not take too much work to remove it without damaging the shape of the rim or the bowl. I polished the rim top and rim edge with micromesh sanding pads to smooth out the remaining scratch marks from the sandpaper. I hand buffed the bowl a microfiber cloth and took the next four photos to show where I was at with the pipe at this point.
I rubbed the stem down with Brebbia Stem Polish to remove as much of the oxidation as I could. I worked on it with grit micromesh sanding pads. I took the next photo to show the stem at this point.
There was still oxidation that shows up under the bright flash. Like its name you put the gold on the place you want it to be and rub it off. The next two photos show the process. The excess gold turned the area around the stamping gold as well. I buffed the stem with red Tripoli to polish it further and remove some of the excess gold on the stem and saddle. I polished it with grit micromesh pads and rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil. I buffed the pipe and stem with Blue Diamond on the buffing wheel to polish it more.
I gave the bowl and stem multiple coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a clean buffing pad to raise the shine and hand buffed it with a microfiber cloth to deepen the shine. It is a nice piece of briar and a unique old timer that is over a hundred and twenty years old.
In the photos the flash revealed yet more oxidation :. This would have to be polished out later. Off to work now. Thanks for walking through the process with me. The grain on the bowl and rim top is quite stunning with a lot of birdseye grain on the sides and mixed grain over the rest of the bowl. There was a nickel band on the shank but there was no shank stamping. The stem was lightly oxidized and the fit against the end of the shank was not tight. There was a gap caused by what I presumed was the tars built up in the mortise area.
My brother, Jeff took quite a few photos of the unique old pipe because it really was a beauty. There would need to be some significant cleanup work but the grain and the shape were both unique and quite stunning. The bowl was thickly caked and a thick buildup of tars and oils had flowed over to the top of the rim. The bowl had twin airways in the bottom of the calabash cup directing airflow into the external bowl. The airway in the outer bowl enters the shank at the top of the bowl.
Smoke would have been drawn from the calabash cup into the interior of the outer bowl and up the back side to the airway into the shank and through that to the stem and button into the mouth of the smoker. I did a bit of digging online and found a brief interchange on a Google group.
Here is the link if you would like to read it in context and in its entirety. It has some helpful information regarding the brand and the particular pipe that I wanted to know more about. My brother took the following photos of the pipe to show what it looked like when it arrived in Idaho before he started his cleanup work.
The cake in the calabash bowl was quite thick and the overflow onto the rim top was also thick. The finish while pretty decent was soiled and spotty with buildup and dirt. Jeff unscrewed the briar calabash bowl insert and removed it from outer bowl. The threads on both looked to be in very good condition. The out bowl was dirty and had a lot of dried tobacco oils and juices along the walls and bottom. The underside of the calabash bowl was dark and dirty with dried oils. It would need to be cleaned up.
The next two photos show the stamping on the left side of the outer bowl. In these photos you can see the beautiful grain of the briar. Even the bottom of the outer bowl has some nice grain. The next two photos show the wear on the finish of the shank and the oxidation on the nickel band on the shank. The stem does not sit tight against the shank and I am assuming that there is a lot of buildup in the mortise that is keeping it from seating properly.
The stem was oxidized and there was some were to the sharp edge of the button. There were some light tooth marks on the surface of the button on both sides. My brother did his usual masterful cleanup on the pipe.
When I received it things were much cleaner than the photos above. He had reamed back the calabash bowl to bare briar. He had scrubbed the rim top off and was able to remove the lava coat. He scrubbed the internals of the outer bowl as well. The oxidation on the band was better than in the above photos. The stem was oxidized but it now sat properly in the mortise. I took the following photos before I started my final cleanup and restoration.
I took some close up photos of the condition of the bowl and rim top. It looked far better than before his cleanup work.
The stem also looked really good other than the oxidation. I took the calabash bowl out of the outer bowl and took some photos of the various parts of the pipe. It is an interesting piece of pipe history and it is in excellent condition for a pipe of its age.
I did a bit more scrubbing of the internals to remove any remaining oils and tars. I used pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and alcohol to clean out the mortise and the airway in the shank and the stem. I scrubbed out the inside of the outer bowl and the inner bowl with alcohol and cotton swabs. I pushed pipe cleaners through the two airholes in the bottom of the calabash bowl.
I sanded the bottom of the internal bowl to remove the last of the buildup and wiped it down with alcohol on a cotton pad.
I sanded the oxidized stem and reshaped the edge of the button with grit sandpaper to clean things up and bring it back to the original black vulcanite. I wiped off the scrub and resanded the stem to remove the remaining oxidation. The photos below show the progress of the stem cleanup. I used a folded piece of sandpaper to smooth out the inner edge of the calabash bowl and remove the remaining debris along the edge.
I sanded the inside of the bowl to clean it up as well. I polished the rim top with micromesh sanding pads - wet sanding with grit pads and dry sanding it with grit pads.