Napier costume jewelry from the s and early s is extremely hard to find and highly prized by both Napier enthusiasts and collectors of Art Deco jewelry. Like Ciner costume jewelry, it is often difficult to date Napier pieces simply by looking at the mark. This is especially true for the novice collector or dealer that has not studied this type of jewelry extensively. Pieces from other decades are frequently mistaken as s era because very similar marks - especially the version in block letters shown below - were widely used on pieces made in later decades. To accurately date Napier jewelry, it is imperative to look at the overall style, construction, and components used in manufacture to determine the age of the pieces. The older styles are usually more delicate in appearance, even though they were well made and held up well over time. For more information on marks and dating Napier jewelry throughout the company's history, including many Art Deco examples not shown here, consider obtaining a copy of The Napier Co.
The other types of clasps continued to be used, and are still used today. However, if you were dating a necklace that has an original hook-and-extender clasp, you could begin your research with the assumption that the piece was likely made no earlier than the s.
When available, copyright information can be used in the same manner. A great example is jewelry manufactured by Hollycraft during the s.
Sep 20, Vintage jewelry hardware refers to the various types of clasps, pins, earring backs, rings, and other elements used to create jewelry. These are also called "findings." Techniques and elements have evolved over time, so knowing the types of hardware used during various eras will help you to properly date your vintage and antique jewelry. For more information about vintage jewelry patents, see this article: Vintage Jewelry Patents: Find and Use them to Date Vintage Jewelry Trifari Vintage Jewelry Signatures Prior to , the top jewelry designers patented their designs to protect them from other jewelry companies who . To accurately date Napier jewelry, it is imperative to look at the overall style, construction, and components used in manufacture to determine the age of the pieces. This is where it actually gets a bit easier because the styles from the s and '30s are oftentimes distinctly different than the pieces Napier made later on, even when using components like metal filigree.
Since Hollycraft was not a huge manufacturer like Coro or Trifari, and had a more defined style, this information is not of great use in identifying general styles of the decade. However, determining findings popularly used is possible.
From throughthe survey found no examples of screw-back earring findings on the dated Hollycraft pieces. If attempting to date a pair of earrings with screw-back findings, this information can be used to focus your research to before the mids.
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A second primary-source dating tool is the use of books about fairly-large and prolific costume jewelry manufacturing companies, where original sources have been used by the author. DeLizza, and Melinda L.
It is known that they were in business and marking jewelry with the Florenza brand beginning in the early s until the company closed in February of The author is attempting to date pieces of this jewelry to specific decades. Here is one example:.
After summarizing this information in list form, one can note that large navettes and ovals, and givre stones were popular during the years through Also during this period, the company is producing necklace, bracelet, pin and earrings sets.
Combining this information and specifics mentioned in these books, the author is dating this Florenza set to circa early s.
Dating Brooch Fasteners - to By Mark Chervenka One of the best ways to avoid reproductions and fakes is to know and understand how originals are made. Reproductions are rarely made the same as originals due to changes in materials, labor costs and modern production techniques. There are a number of clues you can use to successfully date antique and vintage brooches and pins. This usually begins with looking at things like clasps and hinges, since certain types are known to have been used during specific periods in time. Dec 08, Another category of Florenza jewelry for dating research is the selection of large charm bracelets produced by the company, such as the two pictured here (click on images for larger view): Referencing The Napier Co. by Melinda Lewis, "chunky" charm bracelets of similar design were very popular in the s (see pages -). Other sources confirm dating this style of Florenza charm .
Another category of Florenza jewelry for dating research is the selection of large charm bracelets produced by the company, such as the two pictured here click on images for larger view :. Referencing The Napier Co.
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Other sources confirm dating this style of Florenza charm bracelets to circa s. Advertisements and catalogs, both retail and wholesale, are great sources for determining styles and designs popular during a particular time period. Trifari and Coro advertised extensively during the s, s and s, as did many other costume jewelry companies.
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A large number of vintage advertisements and catalogs are available to view online, and the following websites have extensive examples:. MC superimposed - See I.
Dec 31, Dating Vintage Jewelry By Clasp Fastenings. Posted December 31, in Jewelry. by. One of the most common questions that I receive from customers is "how old is this piece of jewelry?" Sometimes the question is very easy to answer, especially if the jewelry is marked in any way. Certain markings were only used in specific time periods. Aug 24, Mark: Maxann seen in Keystone in Photo courtesy Alison's Antiques & Vintage Jewelry on Ruby Lane. MAXIMAL ART Interviews with Matthew Mazer referencing costume jewelry appear in numerous newspaper articles dating to the s. ated 3/10/ by Pamela Wiggins Siegel MB with the phrygian cap - see BOUCHER. Oct 24, The invention of different earring findings will help date your jewelry. Jewelry findings are ready made pieces that jewelers use such as clasps, pin stems, hinges, etc. Fittings refer to the parts that can be custom-made for a piece. This drawing shows the .
He considered his jewelry avant-garde and was considered a major representative of Modernism American studio jewelry. Photo courtesy RCJ. Founded by Robert Mandle, the son of Urie Mandle, in Robert retired in the s and Gem-Craft acquired his master molds and use of his designs.
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Founded in as the Attleboro Chain Co. Marhill imported Japanese-made mother-of-pearl smoking accessories, compacts, and a small amount of jewelry.
Information courtesy Rebecca Fransway. The Marhill Co.
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She designed jewelry for couture houses and for her own line. Made shoe buckles beginning in and then costume jewelry production began in Brothers split in mids. Louis Mazer continued to operate the original costume jewelry business after the brothers split with the help of his son Nat.
The company ceased operation inthe same year Louis Mazer passed away. Joseph Mazer owned a fine jewelry company, Joseph Mazer Co.
When the brothers split his company began making costume jewelry marked Jomaz. Joseph Mazer was the president of the company and his son Lincoln was the vice president according to The Standard Advertising Register in Interviews with Matthew Mazer referencing costume jewelry appear in numerous newspaper articles dating to the s.
Danecraft Co. Judith McCann retired from her company in due to health concerns and died inbut Judith McCann Designs stayed in business.
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Purchased by Vargas in A very small amount of their jewelry is NOT signed. Shiman Bros.
Samuel probably distributed A. Hill products in the US, that already had the Miracle signature on them.
Aug 15, Vintage costume jewelry usually doesn't have purity marks, but will often have a maker's mark (commonly called the signature), and can sometimes have a retailer mark and/or patent or inventory marks. Patent numbers are especially helpful when dating older vintage jewelry, and will be covered in a separate article in this series.
Designs of this company and A. Hill were acquired by the Miracle company. The company name was changed to Miracle Jewellery Ltd.
In May Miracle moved to Cornwall where it is now being made by St Justin using the same processes and finishes that were being used in Birmingham. Source: Miracle Jewellery website.